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Vacation Notice

Because not everyone is a regular reader:

I am on vacation in Europe until August. Fear not, though, I’ll still be posting stuff. You can read about my travels around Europe right here on Andrew Ferguson dot NET. You can also view my photos related to the trip on flickr. Or just check out the most recent ones on an interactive map.

In other news, I will not be answering any programming questions because I don’t have my programming computer with me. Email will also be slower because, well, I’m on freaking vacation.

Also, I don’t have my cell phone with me. So don’t bother calling.

Note: This is a sticky post

Dateline: Tallinn, Day 2 - T and D

Tallinn, Estonia
15 June 2009

I woke up early today, actually using my alarm clock for the first time on this entire trip, to meet a T, a good friend from work, and his wife D. T follows my blog and let me know a couple months ago that they would be on a Baltic Sea cruise about the time I would be in the Baltic states. It happened to work out that we could hang out for the day in Talllinn.

Unfortunately, today’s weather has been downright crappy: rainy and cold. But we made the most of it. D had Rick Steves’ Scandinavia book, so we did the walking tour that Rick details. Afterward, we grabbed a bite to eat before going to explore more of Tallinn.

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We first tried going to the Estonian Museum of Occupations, however it was closed (on a Monday). I looked through the ripped out pages of my Europe on a Shoestring book and thought that going to the Tallinna Linnamuuseum (Tallinn City Museum) would be the next best bet.

We started working our way up to the opposite end of town, weaving our way through the streets to find whatever might be off the beaten path.

The Tallinna Linnamuuseum open and was a pretty neat little museum of Tallinn’s history. It was getting close to 4, and T and D needed to leave to get back the boat. We said goodbye and parted ways.

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I went back to the hostel and took a nap before heading back out on my own. I was pretty hungry, but nothing looked terribly exciting. Because of the weather, no one was eating outside. I walked down through the town square, out of Old Town, and to the shopping center across the way. It was mostly a mix of western foods that I’ve been desperately trying to avoid, usually in vain. Nothing looked particularly appetizing, so I started walking back toward Old Town.

I eventually settled on McDonald’s, again. Although, this time I had a Chicken Bacon Onion (CBO). It seemed like a local offering, seeing as they didn’t have it either of the McDonald’s in St. Petersburg, and certainly not at any McDonald’s I’ve in the US.

It was decent, and certainly better than having a биг мак[1] again.

  1. Big Mac []

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Dateline: Tallinn, Day 1 - Meandering About

Tallinn, Estonia
14 June 2009

Sleeping on the bus was proving to be hit and miss. I was definitely feeling much better than I was on the train, but the bumpy Russian roads were doing me no favors. I think I managed to fall asleep for about an hour before we arrived at Russian Passport Control. My final hurdle.

We got off the bus, gathering up all of our belongings and got in line to go through Passport Control. It wasn’t anything special, I just showed the lady my Russian Visa and Entry/Exit card. She typed stuff in, scanned my passport and visa, stamped my visa, and off I went. No questions, no searching, no fuss.

While we were passing through Passport Control, the bus was getting a thorough looking over by the Russian military. Everything checked out though and were were shortly on our way. We had a short trip through what I will call the DMZ before arriving at the Estonian Passport Control.

The Estonia Passport Control was much easier than the Russian. For one, we got to sit on the bus the entire time while military officer collected all of our passports. For another, there was a cute looking Estonian medic out my window. I’m just sorry I didn’t get her number.

Getting in to Estonia went without a hitch, for me at least. There were a couple of Chinese (I think) girls up front who had some issues and were escorted off the bus. Everything (apparently) got worked out as they were allowed back on a short time later. There was also a gentleman who had something from his suitcase confiscated, I think it may have been a sausage.

The rest of the ride was really smooth, much smoother than the Russian roads, and I ended up sleeping for most of the way into Tallinn.

Once I arrived at the bus station, I decided to take a taxi to my hostel — seeing as it was 6:30am, I wasn’t feeling in a position to navigate the bus system.

I got to my hostel, checked in and then crashed on the couch (again) as the bed wasn’t ready yet (again).

After I woke up from my nap, I dropped of my luggage and then was off to explore Tallinn. First though, I had to take care of my foot that was killing me and had developed quite a nasty blister whose fluid was turning a nice tinge of yellow. With my toe all bandaged up, I grabbed a huge pancake at Kompressor.

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A friend from work, T., is coming into town tomorrow, so I though it would be prudent to find out where to meet him and his wife. I found the location with ease and then wondered around a bit more.

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For dinner, I went to the Hell Hunt pub, which is just around the corner from the hostel. At the end of the meal, a couple girls sitting behind me began flicking pieces of paper at me in an, what I’m going to call juvenile, attempt to get my attention.

Olga and Anna were two sisters, separated by about 11 years. Despite the fact that they were both born in Estonia, they both had Russian passports (Anna, the youngest, was born only a couple years after Estonia gained its independence). We had a nice chat about what I was doing and what my thoughts were on various topics[1].

We got into a conversation about English, including what the word “fuck” actually means[2][3]

It was pushing 11:30pm and I had to wake up early. As best I could, I politely excused myself and headed home.

  1. I try to avoid discussing politics []
  2. I swear I’m not making this up []
  3. Short aside: All foreign language instructors teach kids the swear words, it’s really the only thing we care about. Apparently, though, they don’t provide the etemology. See also: Usage of the world Fuck (NSFW, natch) []

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Dateline: St. Petersburg, Day 4 - A.S.Popov Central Museum of Communications and McDonald’s

St. Petersburg, Russian Federation
13 June 2009

I had two goals for today: visit the communications museum and get out of Russia alive.

After packing up my stuff, I made my way, again, to the communications museum. It was right were it should have been, and this time it was open.

The exhibits were very modern and well done, a stark contrast to the exhibits in the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography museum.

The museum covered various forms of communication from the post office through radio communcations to cellular and satellite. Although I was mostly interested in the latter, my favorite part was the working telephone switch board, including a pulse-dial and DTMF interchange. There was also a working manual switchboard, but being unable to read Russian, I wasn’t able to figure out what steps I needed to take to make it work.

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I headed back to the hostel and made sure I had everything packed before I went out for one lase bite to eat. I wanted to get some Russian cuisine, however I ended settling for McDonald’s again[1]. I’m going to blame my McDonalds fixation on two things. First, I was really tired. Of navigating the Russian culture and just in general. I didn’t really want to put the effort in to attempting to communicate my needs/desires in a foreign language. Second, Russians, especially teens, are absolutely enamored with McDonald’s. You always have to wait in line. In any event, ordering in Russian is easy: биг мак[2], кока-кола[3], and Fries. I’m actually not sure what the Russian word for fries is, but they get the idea usually. Add in the appropriate hand gestures to indicate size and you got yourself a meal.

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Afterward, I headed for the bus station. Finding the station went without a hitch, solidifying my place as “Badass Map Reader”[4].

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I placed my backpack underneath and climbed on board with my day back, hoping that I would get some sleep this time.

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  1. Yes, again. I swear this only the second time I had McD’s this trip. []
  2. Which is literally pronounced: Big Mac []
  3. Again: Coca-Cola []
  4. seriously though, I’m amazing when it comes to reading maps in foreign places []

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Dateline: St. Petersburg, Day 3 - The 16 Kilometer Adventure

St. Petersburg, Russian Federation
12 June 2009

I’ve been traveling for just about 10 days now; and it sort of feels like it. I’ve been nursing a couple of blisters, and I can’t seem to get enough sleep. I’ve also been fighting off some sort of cold for the last few days. Although I think yesterday was the turning to point to winning the war on terror my cold.

Last night, I did some investigating and plotted out what I wanted to do for these last couple of days. I made a list of the top three museums I wanted to visit:

  1. Popov Communications Museum
  2. Museum of Zoology
  3. Museum of Railway Technology

After having missed the Cosmonauts Museum, I made it my first priority to find the Communications Museum. I headed north and to the location where I thought the museum should be.

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However, I couldn’t find it. I circled the block, thinking maybe the location on the map wasn’t right, but still couldn’t find it. I pulled on the door for what I though was museum, but it was locked.

While still searching for the museum, I came across the post office. Figuring this would be as good a time as any, I decided to post my cards. This was an adventure in and of itself. I surveyed the scene (I wish I could show you a picture, but they don’t allow photography and there was a security guard on duty who most likely would have hassled me). Standing before me were 30-some windows, most of them closed, a few of them open. There was different writing above many of them, corresponding, I presume, to different postal functions.

I do the sensible thing and walk up to the window with the shortest line. I show the lady behind the counter my three postcards and try my best to indicate that I need some stamps. She points across the room, and I (like a well trained monkey at this point) mimic her gesture, making sure I understand where she’s pointing.

So I walk across the rather large room to the other side and repeat the aforementioned conversation, the gentleman looks at my cards and then points me back across the room. It’s takes a moment to process this before I realize I’m stuck in what appears to be an infinite loop.

I then had a flashback to about nine years ago when I used to spend quite a few Sunday mornings hanging out in the YMM[1] office at University Presbyterian Church:
One morning, we decided to play a little prank on our small group leader, Brandon Lewis, who also happened to be an intern. The layout of the room was such that the office space ran along the outside perimeter with a table and a bank of computers in the middle.

Brandon happened to have a cordless phone at his desk (the only person in the entire YMM office with one, I believe), which I took and hid above the lowered ceiling tiles in the middle of the room.

My thinking went that Brandon would hear his phone ringing and think it was on the other side of the room. He would walk over there and listen for it again, only to hear it coming from the other side of the room. He eventually figured out the phone was in the middle of the room.

Perhaps God was attempting to humor me. In the middle of the large room is an open topped shop. I walk in, show the lady my cards, and get my stamps.

I walked out of the post office and decided to give finding this museum one last shot. There’s an upscale hotel near by and I ask the security guard if he speaks English, he doesn’t but another guy does. I show him the address I have for museum, and he confirmed what the map already told me. So I go back around and scrutinized the doors one last time.

This time, I see the note:

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The note appears to convey information about the museum being closed for Russia Day on 11 June and 12 June.

At least I know where the museum is.

I decide that I should still go to at least one museum, so I head north again, across the Bol’shaya Neva river, to what I think is the Museum of Zoology, but is actually the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography.

The line to get in is pretty long, stretching to the end of the block, and is made up of an unusually younger crowd. I figure that I’m here and might as well go in, so I jump in line.

Most of the museum was pretty bland with exhibits that I thought were pretty outdated. I was struggling to find why so many people wanted to get in. Then I found it, the First Natural Science Collections of the Kunstkamera. This room isn’t even on the same playing field as Ripley’s Believe It or Not!

After the museum, I strolled by the water front before making a dash to the Peter and Paul Fortress.

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Once I got to the fortress, I noticed a helicopter had landed. Rather curious as to what this bird was doing next to the fortress, I naturally went to investigate.

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As it turned out, Baltic Airlines was offering 15 minutes aerial tours of St. Petersburg by helicopter, a twin turbine Mil Mi-8 to be exact. For a mere 2000 rubles[2], I too could enjoy the sights that millions of others had enjoyed before me, but in the air! How could resist? Honestly, it was a really tempting offer. For a helicopter ride, $65 wasn’t a lot of money (all things considered). However, in the end I decided not to do it. I didn’t really think seeing St. Petersburg by air would be that cool and it looked like all the window seats were taken. Besides, if I’m going to pay money, I at least want to be able to fly the thing.

I did decided to wait around for the helicopter to take off; and let me tell you something, I was nearly knocked off my feet! That thing creates one heck of a downwash.

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I wandered about fortress before exiting on the north side. I passed by the Museum of Artillery, Engineers and Signal Corps as it was closing before doing a loop around the Zoo (on the outside, not the inside).

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I had been walking for about eight hours at this point and my feet were about ready to kill me. My plan was to catch the metro at Gorkovskaya, however it turns out (after later research) that the station was closed.

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I ended up walking another 2 kilometers to the Sportivnaya metro station, and my feet did up killing me. I did manage to get home though, having romped over 16 kilometers through St. Petersburg today.

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  1. Youth Mission and Ministry []
  2. $65 dollars []

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Dateline: St. Petersburg, Day 2 - The Hermitage

St. Petersburg, Russian Federation
11 June 2009

I ended up going to the Hermitage today. That makes sounds like I was talked into going or something, which I wasn’t. But I wasn’t exactly set on going if no one else was. Evan and Jared were going, so I went with them.

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In general, I’m not what you would call an art museum person. And I generally tend to steer away from them unless the museum is of utmost importance. But my friend Staples said that the Hermitage was pretty cool and worth seeing. And he was right. It also helped that I was able to finagle my way in for free as a student (I actually didn’t have my student ID card, but they accepted my drivers license instead…probably not realizing what it was).

Word of warning about the Hermitage. Do not, under any circumstances, underestimate its size. It’s freaking huge! I did not realize this before going in.

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Anyway, it way huge. Pretty cool. Definitely worth seeing, even if you have too pay. You name the artist, and they are probably there: Picaso, Rembrandt, Monet and Manet. This list goes on. There’s also a neat collection of Egyptian artifacts that’s worth finding.

I picked up some postcards and wrote a couple notes to people back home[1].

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We headed back to the hostel, walking half the way and riding the metro the other half. I made a quick stop at the grocery store for some essentials (eggs, bread, yogurt, beer), then on to an evening of relaxation and making plans for the next few days.

  1. If you want a postcard too, send me an email with your address and I’ll see what I can do []

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Charlie’s Airplane Excitment

I’m meeting Charlie in Istanbul today. However, he’s had a bit of excitement on his plane ride from the States…

6:30 PM PDT
SO…….I am in Halifax…….we had an emergency landing for a guy who had a heart attack. Didn’t empty enough fuel so the plane was too heavy and we blew out two tires (or so I hear). Probably not going to get in until at least 2pm, possibly three. Keep an eye out for me in case I decide to wait at the airport. What is your flight #?[1]

9:05 pm PDT
Now I’m going to get in at 3:30….hopefully. See you at the airport!

10:43 PDT
Possibily 6:30 now…….We are Delta flight 72 from New York. I’ll keep and eye out for you if you decide to hang around. See you in a few hours!

  1. I’m Aerosvit Airlines flight #265 []

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Dateline: St. Petersburg, Day 1 - The Amber Room

St. Petersburg, Russian Federation
10 June 2009

Sleeping on the train was one of those worthless endeavors that I still attempted anyway. It wasn’t because the train was bumpy or loud; on the contrary, it was smooth and quiet. I really blame the short length of the bunk (my feet easily hung off, and I’m no Michael Jordan) and the fact that I was sick, which made sleeping in general uncomfortable.

Thus, sleeping for the night consisted of me rolling into and out of consciousness.

We arrived in St. Petersburg pretty much right on time, and I made my way to the metro. The St. Petersburg Metro is exactly like the Moscow Metro, except deeper (the deepest in the world by average depth of all stations, according to Wikipedia) and they also use a coin token system instead of the RFID system that Moscow uses. The stations are also less conveniently located.

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I took the metro for one stop and popped off. Finding the Crazy Duck hostel was pretty easy, especially considering my state of sleep deprivation. I checked in, chatted with a couple of friends back in the States, and then promptly crashed on the couch until a bed was ready.

Around noon, Evan, Jared, and Max showed up and we all checked in and got beds.

Shortly thereafter, Greg and Mike, two brothers from the Seattle area invited me to come with them and Kennon from California and Gianni (pronounced Jonny) from Italy (but living in Germany) to Tsarskoye Selo.

After a bit of walking and a 30 minute bus ride to the outskirts of town, we arrived. Tsarskoye Selo is a former Russian residence of the imperial family and visiting nobility[1] and houses, among other things, the Catherine Palace and Park, home of the Amber Room.

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The line to get in was over an hour long. Fortunately, there was also the park to explore. Greg and Gianni held our place in line while Mike, Kennon, and I went to explore the gardens. The entire grounds, garden and palace, is very western looking; often times I would completely forget that I was still in Russia!

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Then we switched. And it started to rain. And then pour.

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The entire palace is magnificent really, the Amber Room particularly so, although I was pretty fond of the front stair case with it’s stark white walls contrasted by red curtains and blue-faced clock and barometer.

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It was still raining by time we left. We made a quick dash for the bus stop and then rode back in to town. This would, fortunately, be my only real experience on the roads of Russia (save my overnight bus trip). Traffic, even in St. Petersburg, is pretty horrendous and drivers take on an every-man-for-himself approach. Not terribly bad, just moderately concerning.

On the way back to the hostel, we decided it would be a good idea to get something to eat. Armenian was the choice and I sat down to a feast of cold-seasoned beans, a bread boat with egg and cheese, and beef medallions with a beer.

I called it an early night (at 11:30pm) and headed to bed.

Update: Removed hanging sentence from third-to-last paragraph.

  1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsarskoye_Selo []

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Packing List

Per Charlie’s request, here is my finalized packing list, an update of this list:

DSC_0216

  • Three cotton t-shirts
  • Three synthetic fiber t-shirts
  • One “nice” shirt, a polo
  • Two pairs of cotton shorts
  • Three pairs of synthetic underwear
  • Four pair of sythetic socks
  • One lightweight jacket, rainproof
  • One fleece pull-over
  • One longsleeve thermal top
  • One pair of synthetic khaki pants with zippoff legs
  • Swim trunks
  • One baseball cap
  • One hat
  • One pair of walking shoes
  • One pair of sandals
  • One eqyptian cotton sleeping sack (not bag)
  • One memory foam pillow (cut in half from normal size)
  • One set of PJ’s: White cotton undershirt and plad cotton bottoms
  • Nikon D70 with one battery
  • Battery charging station
  • Cleaing cloth/grey card
  • Cleaning stick
  • Three memory cards: 2x 4GB and 1x 1GB
  • 18-70mm
  • 70-300mm
  • 50mm
  • Gorillapod Tripod
  • GPS Unit
  • One USB cable to connect camera/GPS to computer
  • Moleskine notebook
  • Ballpoint pen
  • Lowepro Camera Bag
  • Netbook computer
  • Two North American to European unearthed prong adapters. Note: These just change the physical pin connections and does not convert the electricity in any manner. Almost all electronic devices now accept 100v-250v 50-60Hz, which covers the entire world-wide range of electrical power.
  • Travel alarm clock
  • Pocket translator
  • Headlamp[1]
  • iPod Nano, 8GB with USB connector cord
  • Earbuds
  • Toothbrush
  • Toothpaste
  • Floss
  • Night mouth guard
  • Melatonin tablets
  • Travel soap bar
  • Travel shampoo
  • Aleve
  • Sunscreen
  • Aloe
  • Hydrocortisone
  • Anti-fungal
  • Razor, with four blades
  • Shaving cream
  • Super absorbant small towel
  • Super absorbant face cloth
  • Deoderant
  • First Aid Kit
  • Contacts, solution, case
  • Glasses with case
  • Sun glasses
  • Two lip balms
  • Ear plugs
  • Nail clippers
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Immune boosters
  • Nalgene
  • Backpack, Osprey Waypoint 80
  • Daypack backpack
  • Moneybelt
  • A couple of combination locks
  • One bag lock (to lock bags to something immovable)
  • Swiss army knife
  • Wrist watch
  • Laundary soap
  • Laundary line
  • Bible
  • Moose

I packed everything into sets of mesh bags, roughly organized by like items. The mesh bags then pack nicely into my backpack. The Osprey backpack does have it’s own built-in day pack, however I made a last minutes change (literally on the way to the airport) to also bring a The North Face day pack and I’m very happy I did. I’m also happy I brought my iPod, as I use that almost every day when I fall asleep at night and on train and bus rides.

Things acquired after leaving home:

  • Eyemask for sleeping

I’m also having sent over with Charlie some addition supplies including a tube for putting poster I buy in, a couple of flat piece of cardboard to pack a matted picture, maybe a heavier duty rain jacket, and maybe a small set of camping dinner ware.

  1. I bought an Energizer 3 LED with red night-time light for less than $15 at Target []

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Dateline: Moscow, Day 7

Moscow, Russian Federation
9 June 2009

I’m going to be honest, I didn’t really do anything today. Mostly because I wasn’t feeling to well. I dragged my feet in the morning, but eventually made it to breakfast and a shower.

I packed my bags and cleared off my bed. Then promptly crashed on the couch for a couple of hours.

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In the afternoon, Jared invited to be to coffee and beer at Cafe Pushkin, a restaurant akin to The Metropolitan Grill in terms of classiness and price.

You may be wondering how we managed to get in wearing out travel grub if Cafe Pushkin requires dress slacks, shoes, and a collard shirt (I’m assuming). The answer is we didn’t. We were turned away at the door and went off to find our beer and coffee somewhere else.

We settled on a small outdoor restaurant and got a couple half-liter glasses of beer. I also grabbed a sandwich that involved salmon in either a smoked or raw state, hoping for the former. We shot the shit about grad school[1], then made our way back.

I dicked around on the Internet, getting last minute instructions for how to get to my next hostel from the train station and figuring out where the US Consulate was, just in case. I made my peace with everyone at the hostel and then was on the subway.

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I wasn’t quite sure how much extra time I would need, so I was sure to give myself plenty. I get top marks on that account, arriving at the train station even before the train did. I make a quick survey of the grounds and figured out just where I needed to go.

I was in third-class seating with beds. My ticket listed me on car 4. I assumed that there would be just one train car with the number 4…as in 4th car from the engine, or something like that. There’s actually several #4 cars. I picked the one I liked best and got in line. I handed my ticket and passport to the ticket lady. She check me off, then wrote 26. I assumed that I had done something wrong, and was trying to figure out what, when someone kindly said, “No, it’s seat 26.” That made more sense.

So I went in, put up my stuff, and took a seat. An older lady lady, thin but kind, was my bunk mate. Across from us, a mother and adolescent (perhaps 16) who clearly did not want to be on the train with his mother, let alone sleeping above her.

We started moving almost right on time…it was barely noticeable.

The ticket lady came by again to collect my ticket this time.

As soon as we were sufficiently under way, I climbed in to bed and tried to fall asleep.

Moscow was an interesting city, definitely not one in which I’d care to live. Perhaps one I’d visit again. Here’s to hoping St. Petersburg would be even better.

  1. Jared just graduated CU with a BSME []

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